All the news that’s in the news!
“White Birkenstocks are Taking Over.” Walk outside your apartment: lurking to your left, behind a building, you see the massive, looming shadow of a menacingly stark white comfort shoe. To your right, a 50-foot-tall white Birkenstock crushes a crowd of Ohio tourists on the TMZ Bus Tour, who scream but cannot be saved from the sole of this decidedly ungentle giant. White Birkenstocks are Taking Over. (Fashionista)
Enrique Iglesias has 44 million fans on Facebook. Enrique Iglesias, who I forgot about until I finished writing the previous sentence, is releasing a fragrance. Why? Who is putzing around our big beautiful world thinking, “What scent is me? Am I musky scent? Or am I more floral? Do I prefer notes of maple jasmine? This would all be solved if I could just smell like Enrique.” The joke is on me, because Enrique Iglesias has 44 million Facebook fans who are ready and willing and now, able, to smell like Enrique Iglesias—even if it means risking death. Except for that last part, that’s all true. What does it mean to smell like Enrique Iglesias in 2014? Per WWD, “Top notes are of Italian mandarin, cedrat and violet leaves; its heart is of black pepper, saffron and pomarose, and the drydown features Texas cedarwood, roasted tonka beans and suede.” In other words. (WWD)
- CFDA buys the fashion calendar. And it was 50% off because it’s almost August. Nonagenarian Ruth Finley is handing over the keys to the CFDA, who are hoping to make the entirety of NYFW less of a fustercluck of hopping from the reaches of West Chelsea to the blahly corporate tents of Lincoln Center for 15 minute stretches. Historically, NYFW is the least streamlined of the big four, particularly because IMG and Made have hosted shows as separate entities, often in competition. Fashionista reports that both entities are in, which should do much to simplify the schedule. Finley will stay on as a consultant and she is a force of nature; picture a woman with old school chic and a mean collection of brooches tellingStyle.com in 2010, “If we don’t like a time—if you book four o’clock on Monday—I’ll tell you you’re not going to get the top models because Marc Jacobs booked from three to nine.” (WWD)
All the news that’s fit to Dior!
- Don’t close your store. And open an internet store. A new study from A.T. Kearney finds that customers prefer to shop in a physical store. Not on the web. Not on their phone. Not through a beeper. But in a real place, with a real person there to help, as long as that person doesn’t stand really close to you and keep asking if you need help when honestly you’re just browsing, but doesn’t just totally ignore you, either. “Shoppers find physical stores appealing,” says the study, authored by three people, one of whom has an incredible mustache. This means we’ll probably see more web-based start-ups opening brick-and-mortars, following in the steps of the Warby Parker store, the Birchbox store, the Bonobos store. A physical space has an ability to convert browsing into a sale that an online store just can’t compete with. The study acknowledges that the actual sale may happen online, meaning you try on the dress in Bergdorf’s, but make the purchase online. Whether the transaction happens at a digital competitor, instead of the physical store’s online counterpart, is unclear. Do brick-and-mortars actually breed loyalty, or are they just Amazon’s dressing rooms? (A.T. Kearney)
- Hey white boy, what you doing uptown? In a gesture of spirited redundancy, Vineyard Vines will open a store on the Upper East Side, a neighborhood already pimpled with be-croakied bros sporting the preppy line’s signature whale wear. While most brands pluck a shiny spot on Madison for their first uptown flagship, VV is wisely opening on Third Avenue, a street as convenient to the consultants of Yorkville as the Hamptons-bound Trinity seniors of Park Avenue. The checkout counter will be a fishing boat, because duh, so it’s like your cash is sailing away. (WWD)
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski named artistic director at Hermès. Vanhee-Cybulski, who was previously women’s design director at The Row, will present her first collection next year. Lemaire and Hermès announced they were parting ways on Monday; Lemaire will focus on his eponymous line, which tbh is beyond wavy and sort of blowing up. His recent menswear collection, for example, had the kind of pared-back geometry you find in the deceptively simple primary colored blocks that in Germany pass for children’s toys. Vanhee-Cybulski has already proven she can nail the gargantuan simple sweater=too luxe for words look that has defined Hermès under Lemaire’s eye (The Row has always looked like less pricey Hermès to my demented luxury bubble of a mind). And the fact that her attention will be on one line, whereas Lemaire juggled Hermès with his brand, makes her the perfect torchbearer for a line that’s really starting to click with consumers (RTW and accessories were up 16% this year, even more than leather and silk, their iconic products). (BoF)
All the news that’s fit to hide behind a paywall!
Christian Louboutin makes nail polish. He of the spiky platform heel—perhaps the premiere item to fling across a Meatpacking District club—is now making nail polish. It is $55. Colors include That Bitch from Le Bain and Blake Lively Blasé. A line of Louboutin nail polish may seem odd, but recall the apocryphal tale that the shoe kingpin took red nail lacquer to the sole of an early shoe to give it a little joie, thus giving him his design signature. And of course, a beauty product—makeup or fragrance—is the most efficient way to let plebes buy into an upscale brand. The typical Louboutin customer does not paint her own nails. But the mere disciple does. (Vogue)
David Lynch: fashion designer. You know the drill: you’re in Barneys. You’re trying on a trendy gym alphet. But that slime green color just isn’t doing it for you. “Excuse me?” you say to a woman, who is texting and therefore works there. “Do you have this in David Lynch Floral? A floral utterly surreal and uncannily disturbing?” And they always say no. Until now. In collaboration with ritzy yoga wear company Live the Process, David Lynch (or rather, his foundation) has designed a capsule collection of workout garb in David Lynch Floral, though the floral looks more Kelly Kaposwki than Laura Palmer. Available at Barneys and Livetheprocess.com.
Prada is Back at Barneys. After a breakup in 2011—allegedly because Prada wanted a shop-in-shop and Barneys said nah—Prada is back at the big-box purveyor of luxury weird. To celebrate, the windows are filled with downer mannequins in Prada’s sumptuous Fall 2014 collection, doing high-fashion downer things like sitting on a bench studded with upturned nails and running away from a boulder. Horrifying German sounds play on Madison Avenue. This is a significant get for Barneys, a store that has long carried smaller luxury brands like Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Cèline while the giants have eluded them: no Dior or Chanel RTW here. Barneys was also one of the first stores to carry Prada when Miuccia took the reigns and went wild. (WWD)