I’ve returned from shooting the first season of America’s Next Top Tweet, and am like, how do u sum ^ a whole week of fashion newz in 1 fashion newz post? I will give it my best!!!!!!
Critic Cathy’s gentle return. First with a rumination in Harper’s Bazaar on whether you can have friends in the fashion world (which includes the following on André Leon Talley: “He counts among his tried-and-true friends Lagerfeld, Ralph Rucci, Manolo Blahnik, Marc Jacobs, and the Valentinos”). And then with her feature on commercialization in fashion in the latest T, which was so great that it knocked my socks off—and I wasn’t even wearing socks.
Here’s the puzzle in Horyn’s piece: “It’s as though [Hedi Slimane] refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer—to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to.” Later, she states (more pointedly, I think), that beginning in the 80s, “you truly needed to be an expert to appreciate why a jacket was worn inside out or why a dress that made you look like a bag lady was cool…. Today, as high fashion moves closer to mass media—with brand-hosted YouTube channels, films, huge spectacles—there is pressure to simplify.”
If we’re in a moment at which fashion’s purpose is simplicity, to give a woman clothes that she immediately understands without assistance or interpretation, then Horyn acknowledges that designers are cutting out or rendering irrelevant a particular middle-man: the critic.
What Horyn has written is, on its face, the best survey of the fashion landscape you’ll read this year, but what kind of sly nod is she making at her former post and its present role?
As you may recall, upon Horyn’s resignation, both she and The Times added that she would be working on a book on the history of fashion coverage in the Grey Lady (personally, I’m atwitter for her take on the hobble skirt). Here’s hoping she’ll continue to enlighten us now and again between penning chapters.
Kate Moss’ loving cups. A London restaurant has designed a champagne coupe moulded from Kate Moss’s left breast. Why her left breast? According to legend, the first champagne glass was modeled after Marie Antoinette’s left breast. But why her left breast? Because it was her more liberal breast? Because the other breast wouldn’t sign the non-disclosure agreement? (Vogue UK)
Meet my model, Gov McDonnell! The latest in the McDonnell trial is the fantastical scene—straight modern noir—when the Virginia’s former first couple met their Daddy Warbucks vitamin salesman: “In December 2009, a month before Mr. McDonnell’s inauguration, he met Mr. Williams for the first time, a 10-minute chat at a New York event. But later Mr. Williams invited the McDonnells to his dinner table, introduced them to a male model, identified as Brad, and offered Mr. McDonnell a sip from his bottle of $5,000 cognac.” [The model, FYI.] (NYT)
People just want to look like they’re working out. (WSJ)